How to Apply Labels So They Don’t Peel

Why do labels peel?

A label adhesive needs close contact with a clean surface to bond. Anything that sits between the two, such as dust, a film of oil, a bead of condensation or a trace of fragrance, stops that contact. The label may look stuck at first, then lift at a corner a day or a week later.

The other common cause is shape. A flat label pressed onto a curve is always trying to straighten itself. If the curve is too tight, or goes in two directions at once, the edges pull away over time.

Time and handling then do the rest. Every time a customer picks up a jar, their thumb pushes against the label edge. Every time a bottle goes in and out of a fridge, the surface warms and cools. A label with a weak start gives way under those small, repeated stresses.

• Cold containers straight from a fridge or a cold store
• Condensation on chilled bottles
• Oil, cream, wax or fragrance on the surface
• Dust from cardboard boxes or a dusty workshop
• Labels pressed onto shoulders and tight curves
• Sharp corners on curved containers
• Not enough pressure when applying

Why does temperature matter?

Label adhesives are designed to flow slightly and grip at room temperature. When a container or a label is cold, the adhesive stiffens and cannot flow into the surface. It may hold lightly, then let go.

Store labels and containers in the same room as the packing bench for a few hours before labelling. Bottles from a cold delivery van, jars from an unheated shed and labels kept in a garage all benefit from warming up first. If you must label chilled products, label them before chilling and let them settle for a day.

Heat causes problems too. A label applied to a jar of jam still warm from the pan will often slide or bubble, because the adhesive softens and the glass gives off moisture as it cools. Let hot-filled jars cool completely, or label them empty before filling.

How should I prepare the surface?

1. Wipe the container with a dry, lint-free cloth to remove dust.
2. If it has been handled, or has oil, wax or fragrance on it, wipe with a little surgical spirit on a cloth.
3. Let any spirit evaporate completely; it takes a few seconds.
4. Make sure there is no condensation; let cold containers reach room temperature.
5. Label straight away, before the surface picks up dust again.

On candle jars, fragrance oil and wax on the glass are the most common cause of lifting labels. A clean wipe is worth the extra minute.

How do I put the label on?

Line the label up, then touch down the centre first, not one edge. Smooth outwards towards each side with your thumb or a soft plastic card, pushing any air ahead of you and out at the edges. Finish by pressing firmly round the edges.

On round containers, it is often easier to lay the label face down and roll the container over it, or to hold the label still and turn the jar into it. Either way, the pressure goes on evenly from the middle out, which is what keeps air bubbles away.

Speed is not the enemy, but hesitation is. Lifting a label to adjust it, then pressing it down again, picks up dust on the adhesive and weakens the bond. A jig or a pencil mark on a template helps you place each label right the first time.

What about curved and squeezy containers?

Labels follow a cylinder well but cannot follow two curves at once. Keep labels on the straight wall of a jar or bottle, clear of the shoulder and base. On tapered tubs, use a curved wrap cut to the taper rather than a rectangle. Our guide to measuring jars and bottles for labels explains how.

Squeezy bottles and tubes flex every time they are used. Film labels flex with them better than paper. Rounded corners, a little space at the top and bottom, and a label narrower than half the circumference all help it stay flat.

Does the label material make a difference?

Yes, especially where water and oil are involved. Paper absorbs moisture and oil; as it swells and softens, it pulls away from the surface. White and clear BOPP film do not absorb water, so they hold their shape and keep an even grip.

Rounded corners make a surprising difference on any stock. A sharp corner concentrates the lifting force at one point; a 2 to 3 mm radius spreads it out.

How long should labels settle?

A permanent adhesive keeps strengthening for some hours after it is applied, as it flows into the tiny texture of the surface. Most reach a good grip within a day. Before then, the label is more likely to lift if the container goes into a fridge, a damp room or a tightly packed box.

Where you can, label a day before chilling, washing, boxing or posting. Store freshly labelled stock upright and apart, so labels do not rub against each other.

If you post products within hours of labelling them, pack them so nothing rubs against the label edges in transit. A sheet of tissue or a divider between jars keeps corners from catching on each other in the box.

Habits that make the biggest difference

The same few habits come up again and again among makers whose labels stay put. None of them costs anything. Keep labels and containers at room temperature. Wipe every container before labelling. Apply from the centre. Press the edges. Give labels a day to settle.

A simple jig, such as a block of wood with a stop at the right height, also helps. It puts every label in the same place, so there is no lifting and repositioning, which weakens the adhesive.

Is it ever the label's fault?

Occasionally. A label stock that does not suit the product, a size that sits on a curve, or a print fault can all cause problems. If labels lift even after careful application, tell us how they were applied and stored and send a photo.

Anything misprinted or damaged reported within 10 days is reprinted or refunded. If the issue is the choice of stock or size, we will help you choose differently for the next run.

It also helps to keep a few labels from each batch. If a problem appears months later, testing a fresh label from the same roll on a clean container shows quickly whether the issue is the label or the conditions.

A checklist for your packing bench

Pin this near where you label. Room temperature: containers and labels both. Clean and dry: wiped, with no oil, wax or condensation. Right place: on the straight wall, clear of shoulders and curves. Centre first: smooth outwards, then press the edges. Settle: a day before chilling, washing or boxing.

Follow those five steps and almost every peeling problem disappears, whatever you are labelling.